SNOW - Life | Lifts | Luxury

Banff National Park stretches up the Bow River Valley along the Trans-Canada Highway, through mountains so recently formed that gravity and erosion seem to have taken little toll. From Calgary International Airport it takes less than two hours to reach the town of Banff (five miles past the entrance to the park proper), the park’s center of activity, with restaurants and bars, hotels in all price ranges, shopping, and even some cultural diversions. Banff also provides easy access to the ski resorts of Sunshine Village and Mt. Norquay.

Lake Louise Mountain Resort (877/956-8473)
With 4,200 lift-served acres and a 3,260-foot descent, this is North America’s fourth largest ski area, and the terrain feels fittingly immense. High-speed groomers cascade down the front side like rivers through the trees, including two steep plummeters that serve as courses for World Cup races, as well as Meadowlark, a three-mile intermediate forest trail perfect for carving wide arcs around islands of trees.

Among the advantages of skiing in a national park is that, well, you're surrounded by a national park and all its associated wilderness activities.

Banff and Lake Louise boast a high level of culinary artistry; there are enough gastronomic delights to merit a stay here for the top restaurants alone.

Beyond the comfort of the wood-paneled whiskey bars at the top hotels, Banff’s best bets after dark are pubs and a Western saloon, where locally crafted beers and ales are the order of the day — or night. St. James’s Gate Irish Pub (403/762-9355) has antique Irish fixtures, live Irish or classic rock music, and — more to the point — 26 beers on tap, 50 single-malt scotches, and eight Irish whiskeys.

The inspiration behind Willow Stream Spa (800/404-1772) at The Fairmont Banff Springs is the European tradition of “taking the waters,” and indeed, this large, handsome spa offers a big mineral pool as well as several pools with neck-massaging waterfalls. Stunning views bring the outdoors in, creating an idyllic background for indulging in the extensive menu of treatments.